Rajputana revisited at Nagaur | Hand of Colors


This wasn’t a effectively-planned tour final minute tickets, itinerary gone by means of in haste, no pre-analysis completed and whole strategy charted out on way to the railway station. My 1st impression of Nagaur, as I landed the subsequent morning, was that of a quaint town. I took a corner in that humble station and rolled my eyes to detail out every single corner, to assure me that I was nevertheless in this century. ‘The town appears ancient’ I stated to myself, coming out of the station. This was Nagaur, in the arid northwest of India’s biggest state, Rajasthan. Bordering the Thar desert, most of the cityscape has been painted royal yellow with a magnificent Fort standing in the middle of the city the city walls echoing the tales from time immemorial and the fort speaking of tales of glory and valour.

Nagaur Fort II

Landscape view of the Nagaur Fort

I was quickly drawn into a history lesson by my chauffeur as we drove to the hotel. A key draw for anybody in search of an immersion in courtly history, Nagaur grew from a strategic trade point to the centre of Rajputana energy in its hey days. Naguar lived beneath the influence of conquerors from vastly various cultures. More than time it gained a distinct Rajput-Mughal architectural style as gardens, temples and fountains have been added. Passing by means of the town is like passing by means of an age frozen and wrapped in time. The city appears as unmoved by altering instances. The 4th century Ahichhatragarh Fort, standing in the middle of the city, was initially constructed by the Nagavanshi clan (therefore the name that suggests ‘Fort of the Hooded Cobra’!) and rebuilt in the 12th century by the Ghaznis to incorporate palaces and mosques. The Nagaur Fort epitomizes the city additional than something else.

Ranvas Palace_Nagaur

The city appears unmoved by altering instances: Ahichhatragarh Fort

I was at the key draw of the city, the Ahichhatragarh Fort constructed in the middle of a flat land, with a not so deep moat and not extremely higher walls, the Nagaur Fort does not match extremely effectively in the Indian definition of forts. It is practically at ground level, commanding no sweeping views of the countryside rather a maverick architecture, I would say. Nagaur was Rajput ruler Amar Singh’s fiefdom, rather a maverick himself. Getting earned his father’s Gaj Singh’s, ruler of Marwar, ire, he was sent on exile, all credit to his impetuous nature Amar Singh joined hands with the Mughals, and won back Nagaur, which later grew beneath his influence and undiminishing taste for art.

More than time, the fort moved from the Rathores to the Mughals to the British and then back to the Rathores and then the Government to property sundry offices and then as a base for the Border Safety Force (BSF). In 2002, it won the UNESCO Asia Pacific Award of Excellence for Cultural Heritage Conservation tag and came beneath the Mehrangarh Museum Trust, run by the Rathore royals, assisting this maverick fort restore its glory. Soon, the fort was brought alive, decays swept away from the walls of the palaces and turned it into a tourist location, albeit significantly less identified that other fort cities in Rajasthan.


Nagaur Fort does not match extremely effectively in the Indian definition of forts. It is a maverick structure.

Tu me le files, je t'en fais un hôtel de malade

More than time, the fort has moved from the Rathores to the Mughals to the British and then back to the Rathores.

A stroll by means of the alleys of the fort reveals that it meant additional for pleasure than arranging warfare. The Sheesh Mahal, the Akbari Mahal through with the Zenani Deori or women’s apartments and the Hawa Mahal are epitomes of structural beauty. Inspite of their mutilated situation, the murals on the walls show the qualities of superior craftsmanship, sensitive imagination and effectively organized composition. It is not tricky to decipher the inclinations of the artists who produced these murals – the court and hunting scenes that are painted on some walls are an oddity, the continuous themes are of dances, folk tales and even fairies. In the ‘Falgun Mahal’, the ceiling is embellished with extended sleepers of red sand stone, veneered with a coating of lime and marble dust. More than this surface the figures are painted in the ‘fresco buono’ style identified as Jaipur method.

Deepak Mahal with its Persian-style floral styles and a number of niches in the inner walls to hold lamps, the Abha Mahal with its eloquently developed water characteristics in the type of channels, fountains and hamams and the Akbari Mahal, constructed to commemorate the recapture of Nagaur by the Mughals in the mid-16th century, speak of the heights of the heights of Rajput-Mughal style of architecture of Nagaur Fort.

I took to the best floors to catch a bird’s eye view of the whole complicated – it looked splendid – the many pools to hold the fort cool in dry summers, the temples in the corners, a mosque constructed by Shah Jahan with its blue tiled mosaic function – all drawn in a uncomplicated geometric lining. the structures command a hyponetic appeal and effortlessly transitions the onlooker back to the Rajputana era, inside minutes. No denying, right here is nevertheless so significantly of history to come close to and shield right here.

Nagaur Cattle Fair

Every single year in 1st week of February, this modest town doubles up as host to India’s second biggest cattle fair. With lavishly decorated cattle, music performances, crazy races, handicraft shops, puppetry shows, jugglery acts, towering piles of spicy red chillies in the unmissable Mirchi bazaar, the spirit of festivity soars in the city through this fest.

Luxury tents_Nagaur

Luxury tents in Nagaur


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