By the time I reached Tabo, I had
promised myself to entirely ditch the word ‘planning’. There was no will need of
it, I was in Spiti, and I wanted to stay spell-bound by this ‘time wrap’. And
in the course of staying a small extended in Tabo to delight in the morning sun and my
host’s well-known pancakes, I occurred to miss the only bus to Kaza. But Spiti is a
land of hope against all the hardships and in hope to get a hitch-hike to
Schichlling, I took the road. Spiti is unpredictable, and travelling right here cannot
be a time-table job. Fortunately I was travelling light, maintaining sufficient space in
my backpack to pack memories back property.
In such a hospitable location,
hitch-hiking is fairly achievable, and even waiting or walking a handful of kilometers does not
hurt. The pace of life right here is slow, and individuals warm and hospitable. Soon after walking
for a handful of kilometers, passing villages with a population board stating “50
souls”, I got a ride to Schichlling. Subsequent on my Spiti trail was Dhankar
monastery, and a trek to the Dhankar Lake perched higher in the mountain. I
reached Schichlling in about half an hour. From there my journey was yet another
ten kilometers uphill to the Dhankar village. From downhill, Dhankar looked
like a village produced by stacking some matchboxes, on a craggy brown hill, and
two rivers merging with every single other in the foothill. The 1000-year-old Dhankar,
perched precariously on jutting rocks on a mountaintop. The Dhankar monastery is
listed amongst the 100 most endangered monuments in the globe by the Globe Monuments Fund. The old monastery is on a continuous fight with the
components of nature. Although it is nevertheless in great terms with snow, and an
unimaginable quantity of it, it is losing battle against escalating and
disturbing patterns of rainfall, a fall-out of international reality of climate
alter. The indicators of heavy rain, the day ahead of, had been evident everywhere in
washed away roads, and wet mountains.
The journey uphill can be tiring.
To reduce quick distance and time, I consistently took the mountain tracks made use of by
locals and lamas. With every single turn, the village became clearer, and the
landscape additional majestic. The sight of the two rivers merging into every single other,
with the monastery perched on the mountain overlooking at them as some angelic
guardian, can inspire random thoughts and leave travelers click frenzy. Paul
Theroux wisely noted that ‘vacationers do not
know exactly where they’ve been, and travelers do not know exactly where they’re going’. And
such had grow to be my state, a guy with no plans, not being aware of his location, just
heading ahead in search of some conversations and sights that can take to the
excellent recesses of cultures.
There is newly constructed monastery at
the starting of the village, but the actual treasure is the old monastery
perched higher. The revered dead animals hanging from the walls looked at a
full loss at the adjustments, racing at an unprecedented speed to embrace this
‘lost in time’ monastery. The beautiful murals on the walls of inner sanctum of
the monastery leave you in a bewildered state. The go to by way of the prayer
halls of the monastery is quick, but sufficient to leave indelible imprints on you.
A board outdoors says that only twenty individuals can enter monastery at a time,
simply because of the fragile state it is in. The 1st storey has a key prayer hall
and some rooms. A fragile flight of methods lead to the rooftop of the monastery.
I looked out of the window, and could only see a cloud laden sky. It seemed as
if mist had overtaken the mountains, or like I had been in some dreamy wonderland. From
the rooftop, I breathed in the moment, the complete glory of the confluence of
Spiti and Pin Rivers and their glittering floodplains. The floating clouds cast
moving shadows, and up from there, I felt some elf, watching more than his small
globe from such highs.
The downpour had began even
ahead of I had produced moves to trek up to the Dhankar Lake. But some corporation, grit,
and endless need to see yet another shade of this landscape, caught on me, and I moved
unconcerned of the downpour. The dreamy trek uphill, with the rugged mountains
and the village on one particular side, a quietly flowing river on other side and the
entire panorama to you, was sufficient to hold the passion going, inspite of the
rain gathering pace. A further 3 hour of treacherous stroll, and I was at a
height to capture the beauty of the Dhankar monastery from an unimaginable
angle. At a side of the lake stood a stupa, as a host. The sheer serenity of
the location, and the feeling of scaling that height, is most likely worth all the
discomfort and labour of the trek.
To attain: Dhankar is virtually 20
kms from each Tabo and Kaza. Common buses go up to Shichlling, and from there
one particular requirements to take a private or shared automobile to the Dhankar village, some eight-10
To remain: Dhankar monastery presents homestay
solutions. Apart there are some homestays also in Dhankar. Otherwise one particular can
often do Dhankar when on way to Kaza from Tabo or vice-versa.